June 14, 20188 yr 43 minutes ago, ironbut said: I read that it is a super hard wood I know people who refuse to use it, particularly in jointers and planers, because of the required blade sharpenings. But it is very durable for outdoor stuff. It might be prudent to add some spar varnish over the tried and true.
June 14, 20188 yr When it comes to decks and outdoor furniture, I'm a fan of keeping things simple. I've always thought that using paraffin wood stains and regular maintenance was the way to go.
June 15, 20188 yr 9 hours ago, dsavitsk said: I know people who refuse to use it, particularly in jointers and planers, because of the required blade sharpenings. But it is very durable for outdoor stuff. It might be prudent to add some spar varnish over the tried and true. The ironic part is that the first board I pulled to see how it came out of my planer was the one and only board so far that had a buried piece of a screw in it. The metal nub chewed a couple of divets in the planer blades before I noticed. Using Steve's planer outside the following weekend caused multiple noise complaints and three neighbors and a police officer to come to my house. After I got my planer/jointer blades sharpened, all has been well and the planer and jointer have worked well.
June 15, 20188 yr 27 minutes ago, Voltron said: Using Steve's planer outside the following weekend caused multiple noise complaints and three neighbors and a police officer to come to my house. I assume you were able to enlighten them as to the applicable local statutes?
June 15, 20188 yr I know you're joking, but the cop said from the very beginning that we were not in violation of the noise ordinance. He came because they were so many calls so quickly and he wanted to know what was going on. Two of the "neighbors" were people I've never seen before and one of them drove down from the street above trying to figure out where the racket originated. We had planed enough boards to get to work and it was clearly incredibly loud, so I told them to put down their pitchforks and torches and agreed to stop the noise. 15 hours ago, dsavitsk said: It might be prudent to add some spar varnish over the tried and true. I meant to respond to this earlier. We originally planned to leave the Ipe unfinished and let it silver, but when I tried teak oil and T&T that I had on hand on some scraps it was obviously worth applying something. I considered spar varnish but wanted to keep it simple. And in fact, I also had in mind your earlier comments about encasing natural wood in plastic coatings. I'm hoping I can just reapply the oil every year without a hard finish but I'd still consider adding spar varnish after vacation if that would last longer. Edited June 15, 20188 yr by Voltron
June 15, 20188 yr I'm with you there. Urethane varnishes (a) lose the appearance of the wood - you see the varnish, and not the wood (b) it seals the wood and stops it from moving. But it does move and the eurethane cracks (and/or yellows) (c) the only way to recover this is to strip and sand back - then apply an exterior grade Danish or Teak oil. Apply an extra coat every 6 months to a year.
June 15, 20188 yr Tried & True says that their finishes are OK outdoors so long as they are not actually outdoors - that is, so long as they don't get rained on and stay wet. It may also turn out that the beeswax in the original finish would block the spar varnish from being applied. But ipe is really weather resistant - the worst case is that if the finish does not weather well, you have to sand it down in a few years and redo it.
August 20, 20187 yr …limited. It’s a Stax SRM-600 Limited. Now I’ve got it modified with constant current sources instead of the power resistors. The CCSs are 01N100D/LT1021 by Kerry – see this post. The board looks like this and is connected to the main board via 16 pin headers to the holes for power resistors. Current sources set to 6.0 mA.
August 20, 20187 yr I’m presently enjoying the Schwanensee from Wiener Staatsoper through “SRM-600 Limited Modified” and I like the sound. Drove 400 km from our summer cottage to apartment and back today to assemble the CCS board. Here is picture of the Limited surrounded by a couple of nice electrostatics.
August 21, 20187 yr My name on the schematic and layout files are KG Tube input + GG output.*. Based on Kevin’s KGSSHV-TUBE-SANDWICH board. Different CCS, offset/balance servos and most parts are surface mounted. I did pollute the stax t8000 clone (well sorta) thread with posts during built last summer - an extremely rainy summer. Edited August 21, 20187 yr by JoaMat
October 3, 20187 yr Preliminary results. I don't know anything about carpentry so please don't be too cruel to me.
October 4, 20187 yr Thanks guys I know that many of you work wood well. I would like to mill the holes where the TRS, led and the power on/off. The problem is that the holes are very small and the milling cutter I have is of a size, let's say "standard". What could I use to do this? I had thought about Dremel milling cutter but they are hard to get around here. Lastly, what color would you like? I had thought to use some dye and leave it sapelli color (like the table) or use a clear varnish and leave it natural.
October 27, 20187 yr On 9/24/2017 at 7:15 PM, luvdunhill said: Team 5-Pin is an elite organization. You do not just “foresee” joining Team 5-Pin. It joins you. What is the accepted std. pinout for team 5 pin? Use the current 4-pin pinout and add the gnd on pin ? Or? 1 - L+ 2 - L- 3 - R+ 4 - R- 5 - GND EDIT: Shure does it this way for the VP88 Pin 1: Shield/ground Pin 2: left channel + Pin 3: left channel - Pin 4: right channel + Pin 5: right channel - Edited October 27, 20187 yr by Pars
October 27, 20187 yr Author I have used the Stax pinout, but since they use different pin geometries that probably isn’t a very rational decision
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now