Do It Yourself

I'm looking to build something along the lines of the Stax SRD-7/ Woo Wee but with better iron in a lower turn ratio (maybe 1:10/1:15/1:20). Does anyone have recomendations for iron? Spritzer, do you offer your bias boards still? I'll keep my eye out for s SRD-7 with pro connection but in the mean time this could be a fun project. Thanks!

I'm thinking about using the 4 gang ALPS pot for my dynahi. I want to mount it on a pcb but I don't see any available so I thought if I took two epsilon 27 boards I could make one. The first board would fit the front, the second board looks like it would need the front trimmed off to fit the back section. The grounds are tied together on those boards so I'm not sure how that comes into play since I've never wired a pot for balanced audio before. How do you wire a volume pot for balanced audio and do you think this would work?

Another round of Carbon etc. state your interest here When ever there are enough boards for ordering participants will be asked to pay estimated price. Shipping will be added whenever the cost is known. Boards from PCBNet. Distribution via @mwl168 in US/Canada, and from Denmark, Europe for the remainder. /S

Has anyone had any experiences with the Furutech FP-682 or FP-681 http://www.thecableco.com/product.php?id=4201 I'm wondering whether the rhodium or gold version of these are any improvement over the Neutrik or Switchcraft alternatives. This is me window shopping connectors for a balanced Beta22.

Someone has emailed me looking for someone to build a regulated 12v power supply that will work in france, along with the cable to make an apogee AD500 work from it. I can provide contact information, etc.

Hello DIY guys, I hope you can clue me into good part sources. I want to build a switcher box. I have two sources and three destinations. (My two sources are my CD player and my computer; three destinations are two headphones amps and a speaker amp.) So I want to build a 2-in 3-out switcher. I want to switch ground as well as the signal so that the grounds of my sources do not have to be connected together at all times. A friend of mine is Don North, who is an experienced designer and builder of equipment, and could probably give me all the help I need, but he's a busy guy! I'm going to get info from this forum if I can. Don did give me just a bit of info. He said I co…

ujamerstand had his university make up some of my version of the stax jacks, maybe he is willing to sell a few. I have 3 of the 6 pin teflon versions that i make left, i'm not going to make any more jacks this year due to lack of time. You could always plug the center pin with an appropriate teflon rod if you wish. Someone needs to organize a group buy and find someone in china to make a large batch of them, with REAL teflon.

Thought it might make sense to make a new thread on this so as not to pollute the T2 thread. So this would be limited to the chassis, any potential board run, and any other potential group buys for traffos or transistors (if numbers warrant). I am hoping to move forward by the end of the week. Please keep in mind, if you are in and make your deposit, you are committed and will not back out unless you find someone to take your spot (so if you are not well established, then paypal gift only). Please express interest here or by PM. I have also included a link to the results of the first group buy:

So I set up my lathe last night, and was itchin' to get to it today. I had a piece of East India Rosewood hanging around in the shop, and with nothing really in mind set out to make some wood chips. What I ended up with will probably end up as a post for a multi headphone stand, most likely with 4 hangers attached to a hub mounted to the top of the post and a round thick base at the bottom.

Finally found a way to get cheap output transformers for my amp after reading this page. All resistors are 1/2W unless otherwise noted, coupling caps should be 250V or better. The power supply capacitors are all 240VAC motor run caps from Aerovox which I scrounged for $5 a pop from the surplus store, and the chokes are also cheap surplus store goodies. You don't have to go nuts on the PSU like I did, I just felt like building an amp with no electrolytic capacitors anywhere in it. The output transformer is actually a 50W toroidal power transformer from Amveco (~$20 each from Digikey). If you have high impedance 'phones or simply listen loud then connect the seco…

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=82520 $249 plus shipping. You can run it at full power if you have 240 volts available for primary, or at 70% power if you run it as 120 in 120 out. Shipping for 100 lbs...

Hi All... Anyone up for a group buy of IXCP10M90S ? This place below seems to have 146 of them and is in Florida. I know I need them for a bunch of projects and could wait but I'm thinking this might be good for everyone. Has anyone ordered from this place before? https://store.nacsemi.com/Products/Detail?part=IXCP10M90S&stock=XSJMZ0000019254&Mfr=IXYS&auth=n&utm_campaign=listing&utm_source=findchips&utm_medium=aggregator&utm_content=textlink&instock=y I'll run it like my others in the past. I'd say 7-10 people is all we need. I'm in for 30

Standard build with AD8620 for LR and 8610 for G, class A bias with JFETs, LMH6321 buffers, unity gain, 24V AC adapter. The AD8610 in the ground channel gets burning hot, and I was measuring something... DC? from power to V- or V+ of one of the leads of the 8610 and it was going back and forth. Also, the LED (this) doesn't even light up. RLED is 7.68k. I'm new to this whole thing so I'm not sure what I should be measuring and what they mean... if anyone can help I'd be forever grateful.

I have a powered USB hub that I'd like to get up and running. However I don't have the wallwart for it. The input is marked DC 7.5V 2.1A. If I can't located the original wall wart, what rating range would be acceptable to use with this thing? Or does it have to be specifically 7.5V 2.1A?

my GF and I want to build a ferrofluid sculpture. We'll need a pretty damn powerful electromagnet to make it work. The problem is where the hell do we get a powerful but inexpensive electromagnet. I'm hoping that we can build one. Is this something that a total amature can pull off?

so pars posted this. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/315474-pure-tube-es9038pro-9028-9018-akm.html#post5259820 all sorts of wrong. lets start with the fact that current output D/A converters really like driving a zero impedance. 27 ohms is not a zero impedance. So with +/-1.2ma you get +/-32mv and then you use the tube to amplify the crap out of it. Nope, definitely not the way to do this. All sorts of noise etc... a while back there was bakoon and audio-gd pointing fingers at each other as to who designed satri and when. so here is the satri version 4 circuit satriic.PDF and here is how audio-gd turns it into both the I/v converter…

So the optical in on my north star broke. The little plastic piece that swings up when you plug in the optical cable snapped off at the NYC Meet and I can't find it. So now when I plug in an optical cable, there's a lot of play in the jack. It works, but the cable can come loose very easily. What a stupid design. Has anyone had this problem before? Any suggestions how to fix it? In the alternative, if I decide to use the Coax input on the north star, I'd need something like the M-Audio transit to convert the optical out from my iMac, correct?

I had the fuse in my Klipsch iFi subwoofer blow. It's a 2A 125V slow blow fuse. Went to a couple Radioshacks and they only carry a 2A 250V fuse. Is it okay use that as a replacement? At the first the lady said, "Probably, but I wouldn't bet my life on it." Second store guy said "You only have to worry about over-wattage." My concern is that if something hits say... 200V and the fuse doesn't blow, will I end up damaging other components downstream?

So for whatever reason a number of different projects are coming together at the same time. This is the latest. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgsshv.jpg Its the high voltage version of the kgss with higher voltage pnp transistors, a cascode current source for the 3rd stage, the lsk389 part (or singles) and much higher voltage output transistors. The result is something that runs on +/-500 volt power supplies, and is as close as i know how to do to the T2. (except fully solid state, and easy to build) The transistors that go on the heatsinks are already insulated, which makes that part easy. Not a lot more money than an exstata, and much better sound. …

I have had my beloved ATH-L3000 for many years now. It has developed a frayed cable around the split: I am seeking advice as to possible next steps. Right now, it is not causing any performance issue (has not broken connection). As a safety measure, I have wrapped the entire junction with some blue painters tape to hold it all in place - not ideal. Questions: Is a replacement original cable (NOS) available? - checked with AT - they had no real response - said send it in.. Try to repair the junction? - not much room to work and secure. Is a compatible replacement available (equal quality)? Possible third party cable replaceme…

Anyone ever tried them? If so, what setup worked best and how quiet were they? I've been thinking up logistics of the SRM212 I'm recasing with the new HV power supply. Thinking about using a small 40mm fan since the heatsinks I will be attempting to use (same ones as what I'm attempting to put in the mini Dynalo) aren't that big and I want to crank it to 10mA. I'll be using one per channel so 2 total and each will be dissipating around 11-12W. Guesstimating 4C/W rise on the sinks (no specs stated in the listing) that's around 75-80C on its own If it's 5C/W then it's really bad times.

I was working on a project this weekend and realized that I had my camera downstairs in my DIY dungeon. It seemed like a good time to take a picture and start a thread like this, I figure no one should be ashamed of what their space looks like after they see mine. That's my nightmare, what's yours?

Has anyone here built a line-filter/power-conditioner kind of thing using RFI suppression capacitors? K Works makes something like that, the K Works Silencers, but I discovered that they don't use X2/Y2 rated safety capacitors, which you need if you don't want to kill someone via electric shock or fire. I want to build my own using safety capacitors. For "across the line" capacitors you need X2 class. This will not catch fire and generally will just trip a fuse if they fail. For "hot to ground" and "neutral to ground" you need Y2 class. These are guaranteed not to short. They are self-healing and will open if they completely fail. One might like to use a…

I'm building a Xono clone. I need to match 2SK170 JFETs and BC550 BJTs. I'm new to transistor matching - Google has left me a bit confused with the amount of "suggestions". Any clues as to the best / most convenient method, hopefully with a link to a tutorial?

As Luvdunhill has a limit of 100 total for his mini-GB, and the the count was well above 100 not counting myself and luvdunhill, I've got a quote from Trendsetter at 5USD/ea, at minimum of 100, I've decided to organize a GB for those who still wants the LSK389B at 5USD/each, state your interest here At this point in time there are almost 100. Please be aware that the GB started as for SOIC-8 package alone. I have added the TO-71 to the spreadsheet. 20160120: GROUP BUY CLOSED