Do It Yourself

My beloved KGSSHV died, one channel went up in smoke. Tried to fix it but I cannot find the fault. Would you be willing to help troubleshoot? I’ll gladly pay for any help, want to get my amp back to work.

As proposed, I started this thread for all to share your KGSSHV Carbon build experience and to exchange Q&A. This is a natural follow up thread to the Carbon Group Buy thread. Here are the version of Gerber files used for the boards in the group buy: kgsshvcarbonv5.zip (amp board) kgsshvpssicfetdual2new.zip (GoldenReference HV power supply, all-in-one version) kgsshvpssicfetsinglenewrightfat.zip (GoldenReference HV power supply, B+ and bias) kgsshvpssicfetsinglenewleftfat.zip ( GoldenReference HV power supply, B- and 7815/7915 based +/-15V regulator) goldenreference4.zip (GoldenReference LV bipolar power supply) goldenreference4plus…

Anyone has experience with the Ebay kits for the KGSSHV Carbon: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-supply-PCB-for-KG-Kevin-Gilmore-KGSSHV-CARBON-Electrostatic-amp-L9-50/123415369465 and https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kevin-Gilmore-KGSSHV-CARBON-Electrostatic-Headphone-amplifier-bare-PCB-L8-39/123327894674 The names contain "L9-50" and "L8-39": are these version numbers ? I'm interested in building a KGSSHV Carbon and any help is appreciated.

Hi all, I'm going to do a board run for Dr Gilmore's latest projects (KGSSHV, Dynahi Rev A and DynaFET) so if anyone is interested, please sign up here. The KGSSHV will be the latest revision. Board set would be 2x amp boards and 1x PSU board. The amp boards are now mounted on side heatsinks. http://gilmore.chem..../kgsshvps8e.jpg http://gilmore.chem....gsshvampv7s.jpg The Balanced Dyhahi Rev A and DynaFET will share the same PSU. One PSU is enough but due to the symmetry, 2 would surely look better Board set would be 2x amp boards and 1/2x PSU board(s). http://gilmore.chem....u/dynahibal.jpg http://gilmore.chem....ynahifetbal.jpg http://gilmore.chem....…

enough people have been asking for this, we finally decided to do it. It was easy from the current layout. Best to stick with +/-400v power supplies http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgst.jpg

Hi: I just placed an order to have 10 sets of KGST boards made. A few of them are already spoken for but I should have 5 sets available to those interested. Here are some details: 1. The amp board is KGST6S4CASCODE (120mm x 135mm), the PSU is KGBHULTRAMINPSV4 (105mm x 134mm). 2. The boards are all 2mm thickness, 2oz copper, green silkscreen with white lettering. I wanted the thicker board that can better sustain the mounting and dismounting of the tubes. 3. I am using a PCB fab house in Taiwan which was recommended to me but I have no prior experience with them. 4. JimL has traced the cascode CCS part of the KGS…

I've got a couple normal bias Staxen I'd like to build an amp for, any ideas for any simple mods to make a normal bias KGST? Edit: apologies if this is a simple mod, I've done searches but what comes up is for going the other direction (normal->pro)

I'm looking to do a group run of the KGST boards, please followup on this thread if interested. Thanks -

Has anyone used a Khozmo Attenuator? They look extremely well built. I wonder how it sounds compared to a goldpoint or a dact

Both Birgir and I have wanted one of these for quite a while, and they never seem to show up. So with a little help from one of the members here we were able to reverse engineer this one. http://gilmore.chem....rn.edu/ksa5.pdf http://gilmore.chem....rn.edu/ksa5.jpg still have work to do on the power supply. All the parts are still available, but identical and compatible parts also available. mpsw06 and mpsw56 and lsk389 I think this one is fairly cheap to do. And easy to assemble. Single channel is 10 x 3.65 inches. Single ended not really a HE6 killer, but balanced, a HE6 heavyweight for sure. If you replace the servo opamp with opa445, then you …

Hello everyone, I had started to post my attempts to build a modified KSA-5 klone over in the "krell ksa5 klone" thread, when I realized that I should create an own topic because my build would not be an exact clone... so this here is then exactly that. I will copy the previous posts here and delete there! Cheers, Alex. Hey folks, here is a first view on my take of this amplifier. I want to be able to attach the power transistors on one side via an L-bracket to a single heat sink. The power distribution sequence layout was kept in place but of course I had to do a little re-arranging. The original input stage is more or less unchanged. Both t…

Not sure which forum is the most appropriate place to post this topic. since it's technical in nature I chose this DIY forum. My question is - which Stax amps can one safely use the KT77 in place of the EL34 output tubes and why. Judging by the KT77 spec as stated on the datasheet, it should be compatible to the EL34 in terms of plate voltage and dissipation, etc.. But it has been stated by many that the KT77 should not be used in the BHSE. Can someone explain the technical reasons behind it? Also, what about using the KT77 in the Grounded Grid, Megatron and the DIY T2 and why. For me, it's both a learning exercise as well as a practical question - I've use…

One of the tweakier things I've done. My twin brother is back in the states for a month and brought a couple of pairs of KZ ZS-6s with him that he has had for awhile. He had previously talked me into buying a pair of KZ ZS-10s, but I found them unlistenable due to their excessive high end. A few months ago, I had run across a post on diyhifi from Thorsten Loech (aka, Kuei Yang Wang) regarding some mods he had done to these. These are apparently a clone (looks-wise) of Campfire Audio Andromedas, which he apparently liked. Patrick (EUVL) on diyaudio also did this and seemed to like them, so WTF. Like I need something else to do right now. I sent a link to this to my brother…

Hi, I recently bought an L300LE, and unfortunately the mechanical part of the headset is rather poor...particularly the plastic frame and the headband adjustment, the former desitinated to break with use because it was too fragile, the latter simply does not hold the set position due to the weight of the headset...I had to put bluetack on it to lock the two slides in place the aluminum frame of the 700 is much better.. but the cost is insane! simply crazy! has anyone made anything DIY to replace these shoddy parts?

I have my little lathe on order and it's a cheap POS cos I'm broke so the question I have is..... If you too were a broke cheap-ass, what would be the one chisel you'd buy for doing stuff like woody cups and the like? I can't afford much so It needs to be small enough for detail and tough enough for roughing out the basic shape. Suggestions?

So I set up my lathe last night, and was itchin' to get to it today. I had a piece of East India Rosewood hanging around in the shop, and with nothing really in mind set out to make some wood chips. What I ended up with will probably end up as a post for a multi headphone stand, most likely with 4 hangers attached to a hub mounted to the top of the post and a round thick base at the bottom.

I thought it might be kind of helpful to have a thread of your least favorite parts so everyone else can avoid them. For me, right now it's the Switchcraft TA3F mini 3-pin XLR connector for AKG headphones. Piece of crap is made of metal and bad plastic and is breaking/falling apart on me. But there's no alternative available

So for a little while now my Sony DAS-R1 has had a problem with the left channel cutting out. It used to get better by itself after a minute or so, then it needed longer. Now I have the lid unscrewed all the time and give it a wee tap. While this cures the symptom it doesn't cure the disease and the wee tap is now turning into a prod, before I know it, I'll be using a frame hammer. I'd like to fix this myself however I only just know which end of a soldering iron plugs into the mains and which end you use to burn your fingers touch against things to heat them up. I've looked under the board and I cannot see any obviously broken connections. I am fairly certain that …

As many of you know, APL is being flaky as ever so I might as well keep my 3910 since it works well for my needs and sounds pretty good. I do have two major problems with it though, first of it is 117V only and the second, it is not silver. The solution for the latter is pretty simple, I just bought a Japanese 3910 for very little money (which are champagne colored) so I'll just move all the trim parts over and gain a replacement drive too boot. That player hasn't arrived yet so I'll tackle it at a later date. As for the issue of 117V, well an outside step down transformer is just a pain so why not try to mount one internally? Since I was ordering some transform…

So how difficult would it be to design an upgraded linear power supply for this unit? Something that might fit in a smallish Hammond case maybe.

so yesterday this showed up quoting alex... "In a nutshell, the Liquid Carbon is a fully-discrete, fully-balanced, transportable solid-state headphone amplifier that is capable of driving all but the most demanding of headphones - delivering satisfying levels and offering superb driver control for exceptional detail and linearity." lets run that thru fact check for a second. yep... "Liar Liar Pants on Fire" fully balanced? nope, not in the way that any truly differential amplifier would be. (like any of the super symmetry variants) and absolutely no common mode rejection. fully-disc…

Members pay a fee and can use some expensive DIY equipment: Ping - At TechShops, Do-It-Yourselfers Get to Use Expensive Tools - NYTimes.com

I just boought a locky_z curve tracer https://www.ebay.com/itm/Locky-z-2019-Curve-tracer/114233327020?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Has anyone here used one or have experience with one? I was reading on another forum that the ones he's built with used parts sometimes fail. They're also swapping out the relays, electrolitic caps, op amps, voltage ref, and some of the resistors for better accuracy. I'm waiting on a power supply so can't use it just yet.

If you see an LOD plug that looks like this one, you might consider running in the opposite direction. Being the fair-minded guy that I am, I will say that this connector has certain things going for it and if those things are really important to you, you might not brand it a sadistic work of the devil. It's the most compact plug I've seen. The locking barbs work great. And the case itself is relatively easy to assemble. On the other hand... the contacts are staked in place. You can't pull out the ones that you don't want that are in the way. You have have to bend the pins that are adjacent to the ones you want out of the way to make any room to work at all…

For what is to become the ultimate headphone stand... http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/headstand1.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/headstand2.jpg I'm looking for more of the 2 piece tube clamps pictured. 1.5 inch diameter. These have to be a stock item somewhere, i just can't find out where.