Headphone Amplification

i found some internal pic of this portable amp, and posted in the headfi thread. http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f105/rudistor-xj-03-a-347133/ some1 pm me asking me to remove it. was there something wrong i did posting internal pic to be share with other? anyway,what do guys think of this amp? some1 in headfi reckon it's better then the pico, it look like a ra-1 to me?

Hello to all, I'm fairly new to this forum and untill now I have read a lot of posts to get a bit acquainted. For normal bias phones, I use a SRM-1/Mk2 which I would like to upgrade (actualy a P.P., but I fitted 1 normal bias socket). I have read about swapping out the power transistors for 2SC5466 units, currently used in Stax amps. However, in a SRM-323 thread I read that 2SC3675 transistors are to be preferred over the 2sc5466 units. Why is that and which transistors are best for the SRM-1/Mk2 (p.p.)? For pro bias phones, I use a SRM-727II on which I want to perform the "spitzer mod". What resistors are to be used? metal film, carbon film, others? Are 1/2 Watt…

I never thought I'd get a tube amp but it looks like I am. I know nothing on the subject but really need a crash course. Is there a good resource out there that I can read?

Hey Guys: I have a chance to get a pretty good deal on a SFT built Dynamight from a person that I've known for a long time and trust. The only issue that he has disclosed to me about the amp is that on the lowest gain setting, there is some crackling when changing the volume on the stepped attenuator. But on all other gain settings, there is no crackling. Is this something of a major concern? Because I don't anticipate on using the lowest gain setting, having heard this amp before. Thanks.

I have been reading up on these and wonder if they are any good. If anyone can shed light on these, or you have these items yourself then please could you let me know what you think. Shall look forward to hearing from others at some stage. Sincere Thanks

Hey i have read some about the b22 and who'd want to know if some one have heard whit a pare of GS1000i. And want to share the conclusion.

Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio - View Single Post - REVIEW: Purity Audio K.I.C.A.S. Caliente home headphone amp internal shots via Skylab. Moreover, does it really not suck?

The SRM-1 MK2 pp (rev. C, spritzer modded to balanced input) was having bad resistors when I just got it. The bad resistors are those 2.2Mohm (R303 & R304) resistors. After fixing that, I like this SMR-1's sound even better than my new SRM-323S for some music. The bass is tight and impactful and the soundstage is more open. Recently, I changed the two diodes (D301 & D302) in the bias circuit with 1n4007. I also replace other two diodes (D101 & D201) in the L&R channels. I found the SQ actually went down (to my ear). The bass impact was weaker and the soundstage shrank. And the DC output from PSU seems to drop a few volts. Then I put the old …

This is something I've been wondering about for a week or two. Why can't I find a class AB design by Kevin Gilmore ? Am I missing something. I know the difference between A and AB, but am still interested as to why. Is switching so bad that one of the best engineers stay away from it all together or is it simpler than that: "Why AB when you can A" PS: I am a n00b so please be gentle :) Oneminde

I am looking for a compact amp with a line out for my desk at work, so I can keep my crappy powered speakers plugged in too. Source is an iPhone 3g dock, headphones are most likely k271's, if not them, either DT770's or DT250's (I need to hear the k271 first). So, assuming I go with the k271, I am guessing I'll want to err on the warm side of neutral, and I'd really prefer something with a small case and wall wart as "desk" and "office" are really words too strong to use for what they give us. My understanding of the mini3 is that it isn't easily modified for a lineout (but I would be happy to be wrong - I love the mini3). Battery functionality isn't important, but …

New? Notice: 100 units only. Linky go here.

Hi guys, I possess a wonderfull, like new, melos sha-gold and a pair of vintage grado rs-1!!! I need a pair of very good tube to use but, I've not sufficient money for experimenting different options... So between these tubes, which one is the best for my needing? Mullard E88CC-01 Telefunken E88CC Amperex 7308 Siemens E88CC A0 If you have other options in mind please let me know! Thanks in advance!

I've been reading about and trying out different ways to drive my HD600s using an Apogee Mini-DAC, from using the standard HP out, to driving cans via the balanced XLRs, to using the XLR --> RCA to my Headfive (still saving up to buy a balanced amp). When I drove my HD600s directly from the balanced XLRs I found the music "flat", although the L/R separation was notably better, especially in a few drum 'n bass tracks (much punchier), and has given me a "taste" of the balanced sound (the first one's always free)... However, this flatness rules out driving the HD600s direct from the XLRs. So, here's the question - I've been comparing the XLR --> Headfive with…

...and Nate suggested a Starving Student. Wanted to get y'all's opinions on these two Millett's for sale on HF. Whiplash Millett SS for $130 Or Millett Hybrid for $150 the $150 looks like a good deal, but I don't know anything about the builder. Thoughts?

I am looking at some new output tubes to try in my latest idea. The 1626 looks good. A low mu and lower power output tube so if the amp is transformer coupled I will get a good half to three quarter of a watt. Not to much .... not to little and only $5 a piece. I have a lot of 6S4A's and 6P14P-EV's but I want a cool looking coke bottle shaped tube. I have some coke bottle shaped pentodes like the 6Y6G .... and they have the advantage that they have the same pinout as a bunch of other pentodes. But the 1626 is a true triode like the 6S4A and will likely sound better; although you never know. But do I need to break the mold and start using a true pentode .... or atleast …

Check it out, people! (click the pic) Not yet named officially but called the WES (Woo ElectroStatic) for now.

I just discovered my latest Mikhail "gotcha". At his last public appearance, the June 2008 NorCal meet, I bought a NOS 6385 tube from Mikhail for what turned out to be about 50% more than the going price at the time. Later I wrote that off as more bad dealings with Mikhail. Today, I stuck it on the Jackson 648A tube tester I recently bought. Both sections test at ~30%. So he got me twice, once for the exorbitant price and once for a bad tube at that price. I'm posting this to warn you to test all tubes that you might have bought from Mikhail. There is a good chance that some/many of them are bad. The good news is that now that my Extreme has been made reliab…

I have recently bought an Onkyo C-S5VL SACD player and WOO WA6 with EML 274B rectifier (about 2 weeks). My Headphone is HD-800. Today I decided to for no good reason try the headphone jack on the Onkyo which has internal amplification (with actual volume knob for headphone out). To my surprise going aback and forth I could not discern major difference between Onkyo and Woo. I tested these on several 24 bit recordings that I have. I also tried my Denon receiver headphone out but this time the sound was simply horrid. Is something wrong with my setup? Or Onkyo internal amplification that good. This post is by no mean to criticize WA6. I am just trying to ge…

Likely due to laziness, I don’t have much patience lately for writing or even reading reviews so I’ll keep this short. It may be of limited use to others as it’s primarily a two amp comparison. My interest was how the new Apex Arete and Volcano competes with the earlier introduced (and owned) Apex Peak and Volcano. This is especially so as (another member pointed out not long ago) I tend to prefer solid states traditional strengths with a touch of tube-like warmth. I’ve kept a Luxman P-1u over a B22 for this reason and it’s also where I think the hybrid Peak is especially strong. The flavoring of the tube I used for the tests, and the one I use over 90% of the time, th…

This has got to be a misplaced decimal or something http://www.ebay.com/itm/331996665716?ul_noapp=true

Hi, Folks! Aren't there a time to try something new? What a headamp would you like to try? Of course, A-Class, of course "No Miller capacitance", of course "Balanced". Do we need new beasts? Aren't there a time to brainstorm or public dispute for the new designs?

Hey guys, wanted to ask you for some advice. I'm about to make an amp purchase and I've always wanted to hear some of Justin's amps. However now I'm stuck in one of those am I making the right decision by spending this much money for the source that I have. What's my lame source? An iPod with Lossless codecs going through line out. I know its not the greatest source but it's also very hard to match the convenience of an iPod. This is mainly for office use so I'm not in the market for a portable amp anymore. I'd rather invest the money into something a little more solid. So I guess my main question is... Is the GS-1 overkill for the iPod or should I just stick …

http://www.tubedepot.com/nos-4212e.html Holy Shit! $2000 for a pair.

Just an update. Now I've had the Woo WA6SE long enough to form an opinion or two. Remember the restaurant scene in Pulp Fiction where Vincent asks about the shake? "It's a rectifier tube? It's not in the signal path? [buddy nods] and it's $150?" [buddy says yeah] "And you don't put bourbon in it or nothin?" A few minutes later, Vincent takes a sip... "Damn! I don't know if it's worth $150." "But that's a pretty fucking good rectifier tube!" There you have it. For me, the Sophia Princess 274B turned out to be more than pretty freakin good, it's more in freakin must-have territory. I'm not the first to say this, but if you have a Woo 6SE, you p…