Do It Yourself

So i just build a crack /w speedball and it all went well and it is sounding great. Except that the stock pot is pretty shit and i wouldn't mind a remote control. After some searching i came across this one: http://www.tentlabs.com/Components/page31/page31.html Some specs: Input impedance: > 40 k-ohm (actual value depends on volume setting) Output impedance: < 8 k-ohm (actual value depends on volume setting) Power: AC or DC, 6 to 10V max, current max 150mA DC, 225mA AC (power connector supplied with module) Volume setting: 64 steps of 1.0 dB Channel imbalance: < 0.15 dB Inputs: 4 Input / Output connectors: Cinch / RCA (can be supplied without conne…

I'm probably going to get in on the H2 + TR2 (xlr version) group buy over at the other place, so I figured now would be the time to start researching a speaker amp build. My F2 clone is almost done, but I was wondering what other options were out there.

hi all! I was wondering if anyone here would be willing to turn a wood motor pod for a project I am working on. I have a custom aluminum plate that I'd like to press fit into a simple, wood cylinder that would include a cutout for the motor itself that would run right down the middle. The outside diameter would be 120mm and the height would be just enough to accommodate my Nottingham turntable, so 4-5". If anyone is interested, I can supply detailed drawings for the top plate and we can talk price Thanks!

I have an XP portable amp from MisterX that I got a while ago. It's set at a gain of 2 (I think) and its not powerful enough to listen to classical music with the im716s. Can anyone change the gain for me?

A good friend of mine owns a McIntosh amp and pre-amp--both vintage, probably 1970s. My friend likes audio but doesn't know too much about the technical side of things (and no, my "friend" is not me). He needs some help with this McIntosh gear. My friend's apartment building caught fire and his apartment, though not burned, was totaled. His entire apartment was soaked through due to the fire hoses and smoked through due to the, well, smoke. The gear is now sitting at an audio store in NYC, and has been for a while. He has been quoted a "repair" of $2000.00 for the McIntosh gear and a Hafler amp. He does not have a good idea of what's going on with the gear, and he doe…

I'm looking for those connectors that sony and AT use with the 3.5mm plug with a screw on 1/4" adapter. Does anyone know if they're available?

Hi forum, I've recently purchased a set of Sennheiser headphone with no microphone. As my intended use was for the pc, i've purchased a few cheap headphones with mic to try and mod a mic onto my headphone. Unfortunately everything was going great until I reached a point where i had to dismantle this metal part from the line of the microphone, which resulted in me cutting into the cord by accident, so now I've just decided to strip the cord completely trying to figure out how i can connect / solder it back together. (Will have to buy the soldering equipment) Below I've attached an imagine of it all, this microphone was originally attached to the turtle beach XC1 xbox he…

Or is there a replacement for it now?

I've never done this before, but partly due to seeing a pic of an amp that Nate had built, I was thinking of countersinking two screws on the bottom of the l'espressivo torpedo prototype that I am building for my brother. So, a couple of questions: [*]Is a Hammond 1455 case such as what is used thick enough to countersink a 4-40 flat head machine screw in? [*]Countersink bits: do you need one for each size you are doing? I would be most likely to use 4-40 or 6-32. [*]Angle: I see 82

Hi guys, Been wanting to build this for some time, and was considering a M3 and σ11 to drive some home made computer speakers. I'm leaning towards a nice 2ch set of full range speakers. Based on the microFonken design. Its been awhile since I've done anything on this scale, as such, it would be much appreciated if I can get some advise/opinions/correction on the attached BOM. Cheers in advance

Here are my BOM for a pair of BH. https://www.mouser.tw/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=b44788bc7f for GRLV and GRHV. copied from Carbon build thread. http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=b6d687c7f7 http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=54687aa8fa Parts I already have or going to buy from local dealer are NOT included like LEDs, insulators, IC sockets. Someone need to check if all resistor value are correct. I hope I could finish it at the end of April

So I am getting ready to order a Hakko 936 as my cheap-o irons have pretty much had it. Which soldering tips do you guys recommend? I'm not real big on single use tools, so which tip would you consider the swiss army knife for the Hakko? I will be soldering my first SMD parts so something that runs the gammut would be great. Thanks

Anyone have experience or opinion on this K&K Audio maxxed-out phono pre-amp? Anything comparable or better for similar $$, DIY or used?

I've been thinking about opening the earcups of the MS1i and dampening the back of the drivers like Grado does with it's higher end cans presumably to eliminate any resonance that might occur in the metal back that houses the magnet. The only thing is that I'm not to sure what material I should use. Does anybody here have any experience with doing anything like this? If not I'll probably just use a little bit of silicon gel.

Anyone here built a Faraday cage? Strikes me as pretty easy. I've got some sort of RF source in my vicinity here at work, and am tempted to build one for my audio equipment. Basically, it needs to be (a) made of conducting metal, ( continuous (all conducting materials must touch each other) and © ventilated (so heat doesn't build up). Does it need to be grounded? I am not sure I understand why if it does.

was trying to re-wire the left driver of my ad700's, when the actual tiny copper solder tab lifted off the base of the driver... I still have it, but how the hell do i put it back??? It is the bottom left solder tab on the left driver (ground). Have i completely screwed my cans or is it fixable. Any advice greatly appreciated!

so this has been kicking around for a while, decided to publish. take my ubaltobal converter, cut it in half, and then take the top piece, replace the input transistor with a tube... high impedance input... DC coupled, no negative feedback, less than .01% thd, 10db gain... just add a high power bipolar output buffer, and cheap tube hybrid with lots of plankton. work in progress http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/tubehybrid.pdf 100 volt power supply real simple with TI TL783 high voltage regulator +/-30 supplies with lm317/lm337 with boosters cheap!

Hasy anyone used the silver plated copper wire from navships on ebay? I just picked up 10 ft of shielded 3 conductor 24 AWG stranded SPC. I'm going to use it as hookup wire and maybe balanced interconnects. Has anyone had any experiences with it?

The saga of messing with my 2nd Carbon build continues. Since the circuit is very close to the Grounded Grid, I'd like to give it a try. Being hesitant to spend big bucks on a nice quad EL34, I have been on the lookouts for a cheaper substitute. The curve of a pentode looks a lot like that of a SiC FET. I need a pentode with the following properties: The plate curve should have low kinks or no kinks at the low Va range. The lower the 'knee' the better. Low Ig2. Ig2 should be much smaller than Ia (20mA), ideally 1mA or less under the operational Va range such that Ig2 doesn't interfere with cathode drive/ cathode degeneration. The amount of negati…

I saw this in a post somewhere and assumed it was a typo, but it is in fact real. Here's a linky to the page: http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/opa827.html. Aparently an upgrade to the 627. I'm a big fan of the 627 (I know, it's just an opamp, discrete rules, yadda yadda), so I'm quite anxious to hear what this new flagship is all about.

so yesterday this showed up quoting alex... "In a nutshell, the Liquid Carbon is a fully-discrete, fully-balanced, transportable solid-state headphone amplifier that is capable of driving all but the most demanding of headphones - delivering satisfying levels and offering superb driver control for exceptional detail and linearity." lets run that thru fact check for a second. yep... "Liar Liar Pants on Fire" fully balanced? nope, not in the way that any truly differential amplifier would be. (like any of the super symmetry variants) and absolutely no common mode rejection. fully-disc…

For the Carbon I am building, the user would like to be able to bypass the volume pot, but would like it switchable for when the source doesn't have a volume control. I had initially told him no problem, this will be easy. The more I thought about it, I realized it isn't quite as easy as I had surmised. Simply shorting the input to the output (wiper) would still result in potentially bad things depending upon where the pot was in its rotation. Since I had already done the pot adapter boards for the gb awhile ago, I started with one of those for pcb layout (the pot I am going to use is a TKD CP2500 4 channel). My initial thought was to take the pot completely out…

markl marce Mods Due to popular demand, I am now offering to perform the modifications I developed for the D5000 (and D2000) on your Denons. M

So after seeing the 60 minutes last week, and already knowing all the liquid nitrogen cooking tricks, the chemist in me idecided to try my hand at the ravioli/caviar things with the sodium alginate. Yesterday's try was a complete disaster, but today came out almost perfect. As with all of this kind of stuff, technique is all important. Its helpful to have a stash of USP grade chemicals to pull this off... So i present mohito caviar, and mohito ravioli http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/mg1.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/mg2.jpg Maybe we can have birgir show us how to do this...Correctly

I am not sure if these will live up to the title but it's the name of the speakers so I figured I would go with it. This will just be a down and dirty diary of the cabinet build for my soon to arrive Audio Nirvana Super 10 cast basket drivers. The box is about as simple as it gets. Rectangle with a couple holes cut in it for ports and mounting the drivers. I will be using primarily 3/4" (actually 11/16") Baltic birch and a bit of MDF. Here is all the wood cut up and ready for glue. All clamped up. As you can see I have some cheap ass Harbor Freight clamps that bow under the pressure. But they cost $1.50 so I can't complain.