Do It Yourself

Maybe keeping such things in one place will prove helpful? Maybe not. Anyway, to get the ball rolling, does anyone have a technique for removing a snapped off 4-40 tap from extruded aluminum side rails? Maybe the sort of kit one uses for removing stripped screws would work, but there is no head, essentially. Any other thoughts?

I ran across a weird problem the other night when using my Dynalo (headamp V2 board). I have an amb e22 DC offset protection circuit on the output, and when I have a set of headphones plugged in (T50rp fostex) and the volume turned all the way down, the protect circuit activates (cycles). Once I turn the volume up a little it stops doing that and works normally. Before I dig into it to try to figure out why, I just thought I'd ask here to see if this might just be normal? EDIT: answered that. My work dynalo does not do this, and it also has an e22 on it. Same phones (not the same pair) as well.

I need to place an order to Farnell through Newark for some parts I cannot get here in the US (an Euro footprint PCB mount transformer). They have a $20 surcharge for this service. Would anyone else like some parts? I'm going to be ordering in the next day or so, so this will be quick. Some particularly worthwhile gems at Farnell are: LCR Components EXFS/HR box polystyrene caps, Newark part number 73K0558 ROE MKP1837 caps, Newark part number 26M1608 Just let me know here in this thread and we can work payment details out later...

So I am just about to start building an M3. I have several questions and was hoping to clear them up here. If these questions have already been answered feel free to point me to another site/thread. I think M3, M^3 and MMM are too short search terms but I got nada in thread titles. My plan is to build an M3 using the AD8610s, with adjustable gain. I would like to use switch-controlled digital potentiometers for both the gain and the volume, but I haven't finished designing that circuit yet (and I also haven't found a readout LCD w/ microcontroller mini board suitable yet) so in the meantime I am going with an RK27 for volume and a gain of 8. I only have low impeda…

So I was working on the torpedo top cover and left it outside the house for the paint to dry. Awesomely enough a fucking duck put dirt and shit all over it. I have access to home depot and limited funds. Is there anything that can be done to fix this so I can start over or did the duck fuck it all? Thanks

I happened to be reading the Head-Fi DIY forum today for the first time in probably a month or more and came across a thread that pointed at Par-Metals site. The short of it is there appears to have been a semi-catestrophic fire at Par-Metals office/warehouse at the end of January which has currently halted all production of enclosures. I checked Antec's site (the one I actually care about) and they are very limited in what they have as of 2/4 but are saying that they'll be restocked in one to two months. Anyway, just figured I'd give folks a heads up. I can work around the delay on for my project so it's no big deal.

Man, I forgot to add 4 1000uF/50V Panasonic FM capacitors (P12393-ND) to my last Digikey order... anyone happen to have some on hand, or about to place an order and wouldn't mind shoving 4 parts into an envelope and sending them my way?

Per the drawing below, where's the best place to solder the ground wire?

I'm sorry if this isn't exactly the forum for this, but I think my amp is probably REALLY similar to a headphone amp, and I trust Hi-Fi heads more than musicians... I have a 35 year old Alembic F2-B stereo pre-amp for instruments. I play my bass guitar through it, and nothing else sounds as good to me to this day. It is based on the input section of a Fender Showman Guitar Amp. The last few years I've noticed the sound seems to have progressively dulled and lost it's life. The unit also has a little hum, and is pretty noisy. I was wondering if anyone could take a look at a picture or schematic (I have both) and suggest the items I can replace which will restore…

Staxen amps (at least the Mafia versions) use either el34 or 6S4 (with the Megatron including some 12's ...) I sold my tube tester years ago after getting out of SET's and such. What do you all think about testing these tubes? Is there a simple test rig, perhaps even 'in circuit' we can use to test the tubes without having to deal with a full blown tester?

^ the big round one 30mm diameter x 36mm length with M8 thread I'm going to be ordering these but there is a huge min quantity. Maybe there is interest in a group buy? Likely, $1/piece is enough to cover the cost + share of shipping charges from China, and also some hex nuts. If there is interest the minimum would probably be about 16 pieces or shipping would get too crazy for just a couple.

I'm trying to learn MAGIC which seems to be the most popular open source VLSI layout program. Feel free to post anything relating to VLSI layout in this thread, perhaps something you bring up will be of use to me and others. Currently wondering if there are any other good programs, open source or not, and if there is something more GUI than command line based. I'm currently trying to run MAGIC off an SSH connection to my school's Unix server and it's giving me troubles so I'm going to go home and try it or just install MAGIC on my computer. Any good tutorials or examples would be nice as well, I'm currently following a set of tutorials by John Ousterhout.

I would like to thank "DefectiveAudioComponent" for his excellent DIY tutorial I did the same as 'practice' for an old pair of Sony and got ok results. Recently, I have gotten into headphones in a big (but somewhat cheapskate) way...I now own two pair of older Stax Lambda (one normal, one Pro). While all seems to be in good shape, save wear especially on the head band, I thought it would be nice to have real leather pads. I know that real ones can be had via Stax (Ebay) but pricey ... around $100 or so. After finding the above tutorial, I said, why not try it on the cheap? Liek the original author, for this 2nd project, I got scrap leather off Ebay (black, …

ok, so I've been looking on and off for the last few days and I'm wondering what everyone else is using? I've looked at the amphenols, but what confuses me is the price point. I only need 6 connections and metal is not necesarry, but if the price is the same or close to plastic I'd go with that. Any reccomendations that Mouser would stock?

Well, it took me a bit longer than I expected, but I finally finished my second TNT Flexy-based rack, this time going for a Double Flexy. Some pics, and as usual, they're pretty bad. I may try to take better pics during the day with better lighting. Few things to note after building two racks based on TNT Flexy design- At least in my area, Home Depot carries better quality MDF than Lowes. Lowes do, however, carry bigger sheet of MDF, making it cheaper (and easier) if you need to get many shelves, which I did for the Double Flexy. Having built both 4-legs and 3-legs version, 3-legs version is much easier to build. Also, 3-legs version is so much easier to…

Hi all, I'm wanting to try building a cost effective ss amp but with opamps I can change out. Something with a small footprint. Is there any sort of Diy in the range of say $200?? THX

Just curious, does anyone happen to have a variac I could borrow for a bit? If not, I suppose I could go ghetto...

I know I've seen it here before, but couldn't find it with a couple of searches. Someone told me to avoid the auto center punches at harbor freight and get one from ebay. I took a look on ebay, and see a number of $4.95 ones, plus some Starrett's that are going to go over $10 or $15. Any recommendations? Thanks, Chris

Hey all , so this is my first post here so sorry if its not up to par. Recently i bought a Srm-006t amp 404 signature combo . I loved the sound but it seriously lacked volume . I replaced the tubes with a new set of EH tubes .. but aside from a uptake in tone .. I didn't get any extra volume . I started searching Google for mods to this energizer and came across a post by Kevin about a cascade mod for this amp and mention of an article in Audio Express July 2017 edition by James Lin. In the thread i was reading i saw that a board had been designed (im really not a fan of point to point electronics) and messaged Kevin Gilmore about it , He said he was all out…

Hello, this is my first post here. I have Stax SR-303/SRM-313 combo. It works well with my vinyl player but with cd it is cold and boring. Cd (Audio aero prima) is fine with my speakersystem, so I?m not going to change it. I got an idea of DIY tube amp with SR-303. Having read many threads here and the other, now malfunctioning forum, I have found this Gilmores schema: http://headwize.com/projects/gilmore_prj.htm Is this a good schema? What else would you recommend? I won?t make this myself, have to make it by an experienced amp maker, so it can be a relatively complicated amp like that of Gilmores.

Looking for some one to build me 3 pin XLR's To Rca , or 1/4"'s to RCA to hook my Begringer DEQ2496 to my headphone amp. Can anybody help me out?

I have all my parts and finally have some free time to balance the HD650 stock cable with 2 female XLR connectors. I have done some searching and these two threads in particular were the most helpful: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=205655 http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89411 My knowledge of balanced configurations is limited so I'll try and compile all the information I've gathered tonight:

Anybody know what votage the Mapletree Ear+ runs at?

Anyone have about qty 16 1/8watt 10 ohm 1% resistors and qty 6 1/8watt 5 ohm 1% resistors RN55D or other metal film should work let me know if you have them Thanks, Pete

I've got a couple normal bias Staxen I'd like to build an amp for, any ideas for any simple mods to make a normal bias KGST? Edit: apologies if this is a simple mod, I've done searches but what comes up is for going the other direction (normal->pro)