Do It Yourself

Anyone ever tried them? If so, what setup worked best and how quiet were they? I've been thinking up logistics of the SRM212 I'm recasing with the new HV power supply. Thinking about using a small 40mm fan since the heatsinks I will be attempting to use (same ones as what I'm attempting to put in the mini Dynalo) aren't that big and I want to crank it to 10mA. I'll be using one per channel so 2 total and each will be dissipating around 11-12W. Guesstimating 4C/W rise on the sinks (no specs stated in the listing) that's around 75-80C on its own If it's 5C/W then it's really bad times.

I've been thinking about upgrading to a better soldering station. I am just a hobbyst so the tool is mostly for DIY work. I started out wanting to limit my budget to $200 US. As always the case, once I started reading stuff on the web, I am more and more tempted by those that are way over my budget. Right now, I am looking seriously at: 1. A JBC CD-1BD for around $400 2. A Hakko FX951-66 for around $260 I would love to hear your experience, experience and recommendations. Thanks!

Hello All... Since there were a bunch of requests for more GRLV boards I'll do another round. I've also added the boards listed below that are in demand. Also, as a side note if you're looking for boards from my last GB I have one set of Dynahi boards, four or five Dynalo Mini, and a few volume pot boards left. Send me a message if you need any of those. Sign up Sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Z1L3MQuuY4ZTUyPQb1qBmVJp8MtC7qEzBUui3z5dFrQ/edit?usp=sharing Balanced\Unbalanced board (both smt and through hole) Through Hole http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/diffinput3.zip SMT http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boar…

Any recommendations for one, used and cheap preferably? (I know, non-HC). I was looking at a couple of B&K 4011s or maybe an HP3311a? Other? Or am I better off using a PC with my mAudio box and a program (can't remember which one I have, but it isn't bad).

Thought it might make sense to make a new thread on this so as not to pollute the T2 thread. So this would be limited to the chassis, any potential board run, and any other potential group buys for traffos or transistors (if numbers warrant). I am hoping to move forward by the end of the week. Please keep in mind, if you are in and make your deposit, you are committed and will not back out unless you find someone to take your spot (so if you are not well established, then paypal gift only). Please express interest here or by PM. I have also included a link to the results of the first group buy:

Hi everyone, I really admire Dr. Gilmore's work, and ready to build the Krell Klone. I'm preparing for nearly a month. But my son (who is studying Shakespeare in the college), after Googling, told me, we can't just "see" the PCB and make a clone of it. (Cos the PCB has many layers, ususlly 2-4, diffrent layers has totally circuit, those copper layers are very well designed. And then he doubts Mr. Gilmore's Klone PCB image-files was drawn up on the computer after "eyeseeing".) In order to make a clone, we must destroy the PCB completely. He again told me: we have to remove all the components first and drop the PCB in a machine (can't remeber its name) and boil off the…

Hasy anyone used the silver plated copper wire from navships on ebay? I just picked up 10 ft of shielded 3 conductor 24 AWG stranded SPC. I'm going to use it as hookup wire and maybe balanced interconnects. Has anyone had any experiences with it?

OK, here's the schematic for my crossovers, including the APOC protection circuit (at the bottom), which is powered by my amp, and is not battery powered: http://www.bwgroup-support.com/downloads/techmanuals/bw/802-TM.pdf Photos of the crossover appear here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/9007-b-w-802-series-80-repair-5.html#post404176 and here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/9007-b-w-802-series-80-repair-3.html#post402352 and here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/9007-b-w-802-series-80-repair-5.html#post404221 I can see which points to connect on the PC board to bypass the relay; that's no big deal. My questi…

I and a few others have decided to get the new bipolar version of Blue Hawaii PCB made by PCBnet in US. I used PCBnet for the Carbon GB in 2015 (and other occasions). Their price is higher but we’ve had great experience with their board quality. The boards will be 2mm thick and 4oz copper, green solder mask and white silkscreen in leaded finish. The cost of boards is $30 USD for a set (two PCBs) if we can get 15 sets made. You’ll need to add shipping from me to you for the total cost. Kevin released this latest version of Blue Hawaii in early 2016. I worked with Kevin to trace the board and at least one headcaser has built one working amp with them. This …

As several people have asked for the PSU boards, and some whether caps are available lets probe the interest. Group Buy moving ahead - collecting payments, and then ordering. Please bear in mind that lead time is 12 weeks ... edit: added: "Group Buy moving ahead - collecting payments, and then ordering.", and price confirmation.

Does anyone here have experience with the SEN I/V stage? I want to try this with my BIII http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/195483-zen-cen-sen-evolution-minimalistic-iv-converter.html

EDIT 8/4: attach updated GB details and remov outdated chart EDIT 7/31: attach updated GB details and remov outdated chart EDIT 7/27: attach GB details and remov outdated chart EDIT 7/23: attach PCB cost quotes and limit first time poster to 4 set of amp boards max. EDIT 7/19: proposing use of HV Carbon V5 board to replace both V2 and V3 boards. See posting # 190. EDIT 7/13: attach snapshot of final order entries and board count. EDIT 7/12: This GB is officially closed as of 7/12/2015. Due to the changes Kevin made to the PS boards, it'll take a few more days for these boards to be checked before I officially request quotes from the …

http://korgnutube.com/en/ SMD tube?

I have some Grado Aluminum headset blocks that I got from the guy in Malaysia. I've been trying to find someone who will do a small job like this but have been unsuccessful so far. I would like to get R and L milled into them with the square border areound the letters like on the Factory plastic blocks. Anybody have any suggestion for someone who would do something like this?

So I am planning on ordering a bunch of the BC546 and BC556 for the Unbalanced\Balanced board and I'll need to measure, sort, label and store them. 1. can I store them in a regular plastic parts bin with dividers? 2. can I stick labels on the pins and fold the labels closed?

I built my original Dynahi 8 years ago and I'm going to re-case it to match my other builds and to fix some hum because the transformer is in the same case. I built a stereo version with two one channel boards powered by one PSU. I do not remember how I arrived at the value of the transformer I have now but I think it's 160 VA. The original BOM for the PSU says 250VA. Should I go up to the 250 VA spec'd in the BOM? Or is the 160 VA enough? I was thinking of trying to reduce the size of the transformer because of the hum but now I see I may have undersized it.

James lin came up with this, I turned it into a circuit board. cascaded current sources et all. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srxschematic.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srx6.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/srx6.zip I did make a few changes including balanced input

In Netherland there's not much people interested in headphones, but thank god, I've found three persons in my building and I successfully persuaded them to build the 8 EML tubes fully dc coupled DHT amp. They're speaker guys, anyway since their children are too young and the wives want to keep the family quiet, they agreed to try headphones. We will do it toghter, one person alone couldn't afford it. We want to build it, yes, 120% sure

I was going to build a balanced isolation transformer. But I had difficult to choose form either EI or toroid. Regardless of price and size, which theoretically will be better (in performance)? I was planning to build around 2KVA. Does anyone have experience?

Looking forward to someday having one of these built.

I was thinking about slapping this together on a breadboard: https://www.fairchildsemi.com/application-notes/AN/AN-6610.pdf The transistors listed (92PU01 / 92PU51) must be ancient as I cannot find them. I ran across somewhat of a datasheet here: http://www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/92pu01/3582415256795608549/?alternatePartManufacturerId=0 It looks like a Fairchild KSD882Y might come close? Or could I use anything capable of a bit of power (such as MPSW06/56)? It would seem that an Ic of 2A on the 92PU01 is pretty high for what might be required here?

Had a few transformers from ToroIDY with two 115V primarys I needed to serialize, unfortunately no markings of the phase. Hook'ed up one of the secondaries to a function generator, and serialized the two primaries. Having two free leads and two connected leads (CT) Measured the voltage V1 from CT to one lead, and V2 from CT to second lead. Finally measured the voltage V3 from lead to lead. If V1 + V2 = V3, then the two windings are in phase. If V1+V2 ≠ V3, the the two windings are out of phase. Are there an easier way of determine the phase of transformer windings?

Just grabbed a pair of 207, almost new, cost $400... Gonna wanna diy an amp for it, better under $3,000... is kgss seriously overkill? Just wanna have a taste at the famous stax, no interested in the superior models, yet.

Kevin says Collins radio potentiometer is pretty dawn good, could anyone provide a little more details about Collins radio？ http://www.head-fi.org/t/677809/the-stax-thread-iii/2895#post_10778293

Recently a distant friend grabbed a few of this pot, called bi p260p, made by plastic，sounds like some common Brit stuff. seems nothing special at all. But lol, I gotta lol first, P&G is OEM by this company... Actually, P&G is the cherry-picked version of this pot, the tolerance of this pot is 10% (means channel unbalance), we could just pick 10 of these, and select them by ourselves. No need to pay the price of P&G. btw, made by plastic is actually the element is plastic. link http://www.bitechnologies.com/products/panel_pots_sg.htm http://www.bitechnologies.com/ProAudio/ProAudio/index.htm