Do It Yourself

so, I've been playing around with some diodes on a power supply and found some I like, but I think I'm cutting it too close with the current rating. The transformer is 82VCT 50VA R-core and I have a 300mA fuse on each rail after the main supply capacitance, which is around 3000uF per rail. I wouldn't expect any more than 300mA per rail, hence the fuse choice. That being said, there is in-rush and the like to consider, and blowing a bridge isn't too exciting in my book. So, without admitting how stupid I was, and how low I went... in your opinion, what's a good rule of thumb?

I'm looking for something small to put in my garage for blowing dust around, airing up tires, and perhaps using a small air tool with (finish nailer or something). Small and maintenance free would be nice. I've seen a couple pancakes by Husky and noticed that now Woodcraft sells a Woodriver unit that is relatively cheap. Budget is <$150. I've looked occasionally on Craigslist for something used, but nothing that is at all "new" has popped up... recommendations?

So after a successful T2 project, it is time to tackle something i've been playing with on and off for quite some time. The KGITSOJC The Kevin Gilmore in the style of John Curl preamp. Now if you want to read over 700 pages of babble and bullshit, you can go over to diyaudio and read the two threads. But suffice it to say that the Blowtorch circuit sounds very good, but JC is of the opinion that only 2 people in the world are capable of building and getting the thing to run. I kind of disagree with that because i have one exact copy of the blowtorch amplifier running right next to my version. He has some reason to say this, parts matching is ultra critical,…

Anyone have a minijack (3.5mm stereo, panel mountable) that they like? I am having problems with a flaky Switchcraft 35RAP whatever they are, and need to replace. I have some Kobicon that I have used with no problems so far, but looking for any other suggestions.

http://nervenet.info/HT_delay/ I bought 2 of these to delay the HV startup of the megatron, I'll let you guys know how they turn out. Seems like a pretty nice drop-in

well the stax mafia has been fairly busy the last few days. So a person over there was asking about a specific amplifier that they thought was WAY overpriced, and significantly under performing. Helped out by the fact that a certain moderator over there was shilling the hell out of it and doing his typical hatchet job on various posts etc. Well that's enough to get us involved. Combined with a picture of high enough resolution posted on the 6 moons website. Guys, seriously talk about giving away the farm. Well... http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/alostudio6.pdf What a massive piece of crap this is. If you really want to build one, its trivially e…

James lin came up with this, I turned it into a circuit board. cascaded current sources et all. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srxschematic.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/srx6.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/boards/srx6.zip I did make a few changes including balanced input

Uh yeah, so I'm failing pretty hard at figuring out why the right channel doesn't make sound. I checked the DCR from each tab of the dynamic driver (which is hooked up to the electret, yes I did mod them so it's not run through the electret into the dynamic driver anymore) and it measures correctly, around 330 ohms. Measured from driver tab to tip/ring and it measures the same. The hell am I doing wrong here? I resoldered the tabs just to make sure, still to no avail, and it's always the right channel, and not the left.

Recently I obtained a circa 1977 Technics SU-7300 integrated amp. The unit has several fuses (4), of which I have not been able to find the following: 3 Amp 125 Volt (Size 1.25" by 0.25") - need one 3.3 Amp 125 Volt (Size 1.25" by 0.25") - need two The closest I have found are: 3A 3AG FUSE | AllElectronics.com Would it work two replace the 3.3 amp fuse? Thanks.

I am moving Kerry's mini GRHV\GRLV GB discussion to its dedicated thread here. I also included JoaMat's mini T2 here to see if we have enough interest for a GB. The table will be updated periodically as more people participate. Apologize if I missed someone or something - just let me know so I can correct the data. I put down one set for those that have not decided on the number of sets they want. The plan is to have assembled GRHVxxx boards, rest of boards will be PCB only. See discussions on the PS in this thread. mini T2 build discussion in this thread. Construction notes: R3 and R2 determine the regulated voltage for GRLV. The …

I've read as much as a I on the topic and there seems to be fair arguments for both amps. It seems HC fosters a fair few with impressions of both amps, so I figured I'd ask here for opinions. My situation is this: I don't plan to begin building/organising the eventual winner of this topic for at least 5 months, but as the changing of hands of djgardner's KG amp stash to AMB has offered me a wonderful oppurtunity. Get the boards and the majority of the transistors from one place, and Ti even offers matching which would cut down on alot of the hassle. All in all, this may be the best opportunity I have to build a dynahi. But I don't want to build it if the β22 would …

So for various reasons that i won't exactly go into, i'm about to have a bunch of surplus stuff looking for an application. A bunch of programmed test sources signal generators. computer controllable. All phase coherent to the master reference source. http://www.programmedtest.com/pts500.html 3 x 1 mhz to 500 mhz generators 1 x 1 mhz to 620 mhz generator with dual outputs that can be inter-modulated 3 x 1 mhz to 300 mhz generators one with dual outputs that can be inter-modulated And some CW capable class A RF power amps 2 x 200mhz to 500mhz 50 watts 3 x 10mhz to 200mhz 300 watts As i said, looking for an application. So i contacted craig who is on…

Now this is my first time on this forum so hi everyone! Right so the main business is that I've always stuck with Skullcandy for comfort and style, but i always get the same problem over and over again(no matter what skullcandies they are!) and that is the cable goes dodgy up in the speaker can. this happened with 2 pairs of skullcrushers i bought and because i live in the UK their warranty doesn't extend to over here. bottom line is , I've soldered the cables back down in the can but the sound still cuts off regularly, is there a smarter way to reconnect the cables inside? or is it worth completely replacing the cables? only problem being is that the subwoofer is c…

I noticed a channel imbalance in my Pearl phono. It appeared out of the blue, was working fine up until a few days ago. Anyone have any suggestions where to begin trouble shooting? Does anyone still have the schematic/build PDF? Pass DIY site only has the Pearl 2. It is the phono, I've isolated every other component including the cartridge. And I'm getting perfect channel balance with another stand alone phono.

Basically a two part question. I want to get some isolation feet for some of my gearses and speakerses. The speakers are easy, as I know they are M6. But... 1) How would I go about determining the thread size where I don't currently have a screw? In other words, the component has a threaded insertion point, but I don't know what size it takes. 2) For those components where I want to replace the current feet, what's the proper way to measure the screw so that I arrive at the proper thread size?

Yet another stax project soon. A lot of people are going to want this i think. Birgir knows what it is, and had better not drop any hints hint: diffuse field.

One of these rare amps stopped by for a visit: This one belongs to Stuart but I'm taking a look at it for him to sort out the unbelievably noisy CT2 stepper and do something about the very high gain. I was thinking about a simple voltage divider on the input instead of messing with the circuit. I might also change out the PSU caps as some do appear to be stock. Any further ideas about this beast? I did read Doug's thread on the SHA-1 but I doubt I'll do something as extreme. It very noisy though and quite frankly, doesn't sound very good with RS-2's and Mullard E88CC tubes. Very edgy and with crappy bass. There also appears to be a small channel imbalanc…

I did a front panel and i want to order a case with it. I opened the order program and selected the Housing Profile 1. It only allows me to define the length. Does that mean FPE will follow the width and height of my front panel? Is that the true price of the casing? Anyone tell me how to get the case? I'm exploring my options. I have lots of solid wood and i was thinking of casing my b22 with it but im worried about the heat dissipation. I've been putting the casework off for a long time and i want to finish it before the bijou comes.

Im making this for my friend who is deaf in one ear. Its my first time making one of these and i would like to confirm that the wiring would be as follows IL1 IL2 IG IR1 IR2 on the input side then on the output side would be OL1 OR1 OG OL2 OR2? Sorry to ask such a newbie question but i would really like to make this work for him so that he can enjoy good music.

Here's the APC H15 I got recently: I wanted black, but I got the silver for $200 less. Is there an easy way to paint it black? The face plate is some sort of metal. Any ideas about how to make it, well, less silvery?

Hi, Has anybody got a great idea for a really good power cable that's under about $50 in parts cost, including connectors? The new Woo needs a power cord. At the moment, it's attached to the wall with a spare 14/3 Belden. My past thoughts on power cords have been pretty basic - for-real adequately sized conductors and shield the living bejeezus out of it. I've had good luck with some nice star-quad plenum wire with the safety ground on the outside, a la the recipe on TakeFive Audio. I pulled one of those cords out of my living room system and tried it on the Woo. It was lovely. But nowadays everybody's into braiding everything. I've made some very nice soundin…

Hope you guys don't mind, but I'm taking the liberty to collect some info, links etc. here. 900V floating supplies 350V/us the cole slew (couldn't resist) seems to be happening in bits and pieces in multiple threads on multiple forums and there are some implementation issues which seem to be worth discussing...namely fitting all of this somewhat daunting amplifier into one case. I guess at some point Kevin decided to split the input and output stages- output board output schematic The output stage features the floating supply floating supply fboard floating supply schematic the input/driver board As of today the aim is to fit this all in …

Anyone ever try something like this? https://audioxpress.com/files/attachment/2685 I wanted to see if I could find something passive that would take an unbalanced signal from a preamp and convert it o a balanced output. Is this worth trying? Or would I damage the balanced amp?

I've been doing some Google searching and also on diyaudio but I can't seem to find a nice answer to which pins are connected to what on Quad 5-pin and 4-pin DIN interconnects. Anyone here know? -think ive got it now-

I've acquired some parts that need to be put to use... don't know what project would be appropriate though. I've got 2 PCBs for an adjustable power supply that can put out a max output of 2A and a voltage of under 25V. I've also got some tube prototype boards with 2 9-pin sockets on each, like this: What I need is an idea of what I can do with these parts... something with 12au/x7 perhaps?