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Ended up getting the Lenovo Thinkpad P1 with 32GB RAM and the Nvidia RTX A3000 6GB GPU. Paid for overnight shipping so it should be here soon! Thanks for all the help.

This is a minor point, but I really love USB audio devices that announce themselves correctly:

I've just never thought of chocolate moose as anything special. I'm more of a custard man.

I find it amusing that no one is questioning the fact that someone made a life-size moose out of chocolate....just the TYPE of chocolate used! 'Murca....fuckin' moose, yeah!

Stolen from Jimmy Kimmel.

Just a thought for your big day -- don't put any cactii near your indoor trainer. Happy birthday Brent! Cheers!

It started with repairing a badly damaged shangri la jr driver 2 years ago, I almost rebuilt the set from the diaphragm to the stators，and of course the dust cover😦 The first thing I discovered is that the 'nano-technology' used by hifiman actually comes from the covering used by indoors aircraft model enthusiasts，the name is OS film and it is still available on ebay or https://www.indoorffsupply.com/shop/os-film-25ft-roll-1 the driver of the hifiman estats is completely glued which is similar to the early stax lambdas, but hifiman glue is significantly worse...after opening the driver i found that they only use OS film for their dust cover, the diaphragm is another PET film ~ a little bit thicker but with much better strength. In order to repair the diaphragm, I found a seller on Alibaba who can provide samples of Toray PET film with thickness below 2 microns at an acceptable price，and use the inner tire stretcher to stretch the film like any other diy estats ，Then test it with a 10" subwoofer and minidsp umik-1 to find proper F0. conductive coating is another serious problem，I've tried quite a few methods including antistatic agents like licron crystal, ANTISTATIK100，floor cleaner，carbon-based coatings such as graphene, and alcohol-soluble nylon, even tried nano-silver wire solution and metal evaporation...Some of them are sensitive to humidity, some arcs，some are ridiculously expensive, some have uneven surface resistance distribution, and some are sensitive to temperature changes. Yah~ finding the proper conductive coating is the most difficult part especially for a layman. unexpectedly, I tried to search for hifiman patents, hoping to find something useful... here's a patent showing that they used some kind of metal oxide nano particles as conductive coating for their estats. emmm，very interesting...🙄 By consulting with chemistry professionals, I decided to try a solution called ATO (antimony doped tin oxide), there are many antistatic agents I have used before have ATO ingredients though. I got some ATO alcohol solution at concentration around 10~15%, it works really well, and coating appearance is somewhat identical to hifiman diaphragm! The last thing is to repair stators. hifimans probably use #150~300 brass mesh and solder their edges to a 2mm thick aluminum base plate PCB board, then glue the rest of middle part. I've tried tensioning those brass mesh with embroidery frame and manual screen stretcher，but it is not tight enough to stretche brass mesh in this way, the mesh itself is too strong to tighten it up... then I found some brass sieves with different meshes on taobao and these machined copper screens are perfect for making DIY mesh stators... after everything's ready，i desoldered OG brass mesh, cleaned the copper foil, applied low temperature solder paste, and carefully soldered the new brass mesh with a heat gun. During the process of repairing shangri la jr, I started planning to make some bigger mesh stator estats... of course，the target is its big brother shangri la SR😈I received a set of the first batch of shangri la sr made in 2016，here is the headphone inside，yap~inherited the tradition of hifiman with such horrible workmanship...😱 however，SR sounds not as technical as the X9000 though，but with more pleasant and passion. SR uses 3mm thick aluminum base plate PCB instead of 2mm on JR version，2 black things in the middle are to prevent the diaphragm from attaching stators，The D-S gap is around 0.7~0.8mm(thickness of glue included) which is identical to JR version，active area is close to 6400mm² ，that is pretty large diaphragm size for a commercial product though，but less 5300mm² of area on stator allows air to pass through. I tried to use the 3mm FR4 board as mesh holder at first time，however，mesh stator disassembly is not an easy job...therefore，I changed to use 1.5mm brass plates as the mesh holder and glued the copper mesh to it , brass mesh is also replaced with higher # red copper mesh for more convenient adhension. I spent most of time adjusting the tension of the diaphragm and finally found the tension needed for F0 similar to OG SR ,the clone driver has a slightly enlarged diaphragm(6839mm²) ，0.73mm fr-4 pcb spacer， and everything is screwed to the housing cover. The frequency response of clone and SR are generally similar，but the sensitivity difference between the two is about 1.5dB actually，SR is more diffused...clone one sounds a bit more clearer. SR has obvious recession between 1-2kHz，it may be caused by a sealing problem in the space between the driver and the earcup.... It's unlikely to be solved without EQ, but it doesn't sound as bad as it looks from the graphics. one more thing... Every shangri la must have a throne , so I made one for my mutation🤣

Why do people underestimate the importance of a nice rear view?

To be fair, I was questioning that it was made at all. But in your defense, I was not questioning that it was an effigy of a moose. Nope, no problem with that at all.

What...."Realtek High Definition Audio" doesn't do it for you? 😄

That's an interesting design for sure. Those designs generally tend to look unfinished from the side or back view, and the Valchromat would go a long way to correcting that.

Don't look now but the Evel Knievel of dirt bikes is is now "well into" his 40s.

Happy birthday, Brent!

I would probably build a open baffle speaker with a full ranger with an integrated h-frame or dipole sub. I have been wanting to try something called a slot load as well: http://www.enjoythemusic.com/diy/0911/slot_loaded_open_baffle_speaker.htm

Happy Birthday, Brent! Hope it's been great.

Cheers Sr Dragon. Hope to toast a cheers in person soon. Happy Birthdays ---

Thanks everyrone! (Well, almost everyone ) Luckily for me, the trainer 1) has some very sturdy legs/platform and 2) hasn't gotten here yet, so I don't have to worry til at least the weekend. For now, I'm just going to continue being old and keep popping pain pills and muscle relaxers to get me through the day. Woo hoo! Don't you love being old vintage?

Threat Level Midnight

Happy Birthday, Brent!

Happy Birthday Brent!

Happy Birthday!

Have a very Happy Birthday, Brent!!! And use a heavy duty helmet with those gifts you got.

Happy Birthday Brent!

And free of butyric acid

Happy Birthday, Brent!

Pasquale Grasso

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday Brent!

Happy Birthday, Brent!

Diablo jenkinZ, you bitch-ass mf’er. Happy birthday!

Happy Birthday Brent! Hope to see you soon in the hood.

Have a spectacular one Brent!

Hope it's a sky-high day!

Cheers Brent, have a great birthday!

AutoCAD for the Mac is somewhat limited. When I was researching it there was at least some functionality I used that was not available. Autodesk has a comparison showing what is and isn't supported between versions. That said, it may still be faster running a Windows version in Parallels.

Pat Metheny Group Live Motreal 1982

Wrapping up the yard sign with Total Boat Halcyon varnish all day today. The only thing that will not be completely sealed is the sides where they will domino/glue into the 4x4s. Should I varnish the outside edges of the side to keep this waterproof or will a tight glue up with Tb3 be sufficient?

w00t. After my first order getting utterly messed up, the OWC Thunderbolt 4 cable I bought off BozosPenisRocketsAndBridgeDemolition.com arrived today. Careful readers will note I bought a TB3 dock and not a TB4 one, but I still elected to get a TB4 cable. I did this for a couple reasons: First as Grawk mentioned in Jacob's Jacobless Jacobing, The TS3+ and TB docks in general are picky AF about wires. Secondly, I might end up with some TB4 devices in the future. The utter lack of drama in connecting the TS3+ dock was lowkey impressive. *boop* Power connected. External monitor comes to life. Turning off WiFi and the gigabit ethernet does what it says on the tin. I have not tested the optical digital output yet, largely because I cannot be arsed to dig up a cable of sufficient length and run it behind my desk. TL;DR: If you're going to make use of a Thunderbold dock, do not skimp on the cable. The OWC branded one I bought was about $60 shipped, and was much better reviewed than the sea of Chinesium ones that ranged from $15 to $40.

Seems like the old IT trick worked.

One CFA board done. Small BJTs were incredibly close matched in the tape reel. A few decimals of mA between them. RN60 resistors, and 3W CMF at the outputs.

Have a phenomenal day! I know that it's your day, but if you could possibly film yourself being injured, it'd really make it a special day for everyone.

RIP Texas kids....

Happy Birthday, Brent. Didn't they make a documentary about your bike riding skillz?