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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/07/2017 in all areas
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11 points
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Two butch dudes, out on the town. Brent's Red fingernails and Colin's pinkie finger.7 points
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Got my spare parts GRLV PSU all finished up for the mini stax amps today. Wiring is a little ugly since I left the transformer leads long in case I ever want to repurpose the transformer again and left the other primary intact for 220V. Used an inline fuse because there wasn't really a good spot on the back panel that wouldn't look weird or collide with the board. The Kemet caps were nice and short enough for me to put in the case but since they're fat required adjusting some of the other bits before soldering to make sure they fit. Had some decent little heatsinks on the pass transistors originally, but even though the amp only pulls about 300-400mA, they got way too hot too quick. The bottom plate worked fantastic though and once assembled, the whole chassis spreads heat to all parts pretty well. And I just noticed in the picture that I forgot to scrub all the flux off those when I remounted them. Well, better go fix that. Hope you guys enjoy this particular combination of spare parts pile and overkill. Only cost me about $70 to put together with what I had laying around and half that was the case.4 points
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Dammit Colin Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk3 points
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Maple Bacon Caramel Pecan bar and Cinnamon Roll at Stan's Donuts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk3 points
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Colin's IV (which is a common base topology) is a good alternative for a current out DAC. It is similar to Jocko's circuit, or Nelson Pass', and it can be made differential without too much trouble. For a voltage out DAC, a simple emitter or source follower works great as a buffer. Even a diamond buffer is a good alternative, and it can be made DC couple-able with the help of a servo (unlike some off the shelf diamond buffers.) Or any of Pass' recent buffers are good options. There is this myth of tubes as being pleasant sounding, and tooby. The reality is that tubes are very linear amplifiers with excellent bandwidth, and the bulk of the added distortion and limited bandwidth attributed to them has to do with the topologies and the surrounding components used. Similarly, the myth of DAC digital glare probably has more to do with the opamps used in the IV than the DAC chips themselves.2 points
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Seems like everyone is chasing the holy grail of the single box that can do everything (pretty) well. So you get smokers-that-can-also-grill (like Traeger/MAK) and grills-that-can-also-smoke (like Memphis). And apparently you need to be able to log into the grill remotely from the golf course to see how your meat is coming along ...2 points
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Budget flexible, the more idiot-proof the better -- for obvious reasons. Pellet seems like the lazy fucker's way to go and MAK and Cookshack get good reps online. Opinions?1 point
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I may be a total newb to this but I'm always leery of the "one size fits none" conundrum. If you want a smoker, get a dedicated smoker. What makes a smoker work well does not seem conducive to what makes a good grill. What I mean is that one is designed to very accurately hold low temps over long period while producing aromatic smoke and the other is generally going to be used at temperatures double to triple smoking temps for very short periods. I'm pretty excited by the prospect of the electric smoker and have read about and sampled great results.1 point
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Just had to try the DC/DC converter. Converter in red circle. According to the datasheet the converter is rated at 1400VAC 60 Hz for one minute. So one of four current sources has the converter. Seems to work. Regarding spikes mentioned earlier I’ve done some "googling" and I believe the issue can be solved.1 point
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I personally like a tube output stage or a tube buffer after the dac I/C itself because most of the solidstate outputs there in commercial dac's are garbage sounding, some overcompensated with a high or low pass filter and a chain of shitty opamps one after the other. Kevin any chance of a properly done tubeoutput stage schematic for current or voltage output dac's?1 point
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What kind of noise? I've had good luck filtering switchers with a CLC with -3db a decade below fosc (so ~10khz), to pick up where the regulator starts to drop off. Gives values in the low mH and uF range.1 point
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I'm going bring Wachara's Orpheus Clone to the meet as well.1 point
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I scored a Black V1.2 from nopants... I'm psyched to listen to some led zep in 96/24!1 point
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I minored in German at University, and took 7 years of German language instruction, before that. If there is one thing I know how to pronounce, it's "auf." Or you can just look it up on the internet: You should definitely talk to the girl, though.1 point
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I have a Rec Tec. Having had a Traeger which served me well, I think the Rec Tec is better made, excellent PID temp control out of the box and some options that can be added like a cold smoker, shelves. It also has a larger hopper.1 point
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I'm still liking my Traeger with third party temp control, but @tyrion has some new model I think he digs even more than his former Traeger.1 point
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I will be buying one as soon as they are available. can't touch the price/performance also for non r2r the teac nt503 continues to be amszing1 point
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If anybody thinks I won't say something to them in person...well you'd think wrong. As for HF, well it is run by shills so things are never going to change but what they might be upset about is shitheads like this one cutting into their bottom line.1 point
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That's a strange name for a titty bar. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk1 point
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I wired up a 25VA toroid with 18v secondaries to the GoldenReference (set up for +/- 18VDC) tonight and as can be expected the heatsink temperature dropped significantly powering the same Susy Dynalo amp. They still run warm but no longer hot to the touch. I guess the take away lesson for me is to allow sufficient headroom choosing the transformer but not to get too overboard. Spent a couple of hours dialing in the offset of the Susy Dynalo, finally sitting down to listen to some music. Happy to report everything appears to be in good working order. I settled on 18VDC rails and 312 ohm for R38/R39 which, after warm-up, results in about 19mA per output device (380mV voltage drop on the 20 ohm emitter resistors). The MPSWx6 output devices run very warm but not hot to the touch.1 point